The wind has abated to 20 knots and the sea has settled into a much more comfortable steady pattern of ocean swell.

The wind has abated to 20 knots and the sea has settled into a much more comfortable steady pattern of ocean swell. The boat rolls evenly no longer buffeted by rogue swells. Lives are returning to normal, the watches are filled and our first iceberg is sighted. Just a small growler, but causing great excitement on board. A promise of the wonderland before us. Helming the ship is the most invigorating watch, keeping the enormous ship on course, true to the wind and waves. Friendships are forming and the sound of laughter is becoming more common than the sound of barfing. Tomorrow we reach the peninsula and begin our onshore explorations. Today’s preparations include vacuuming our equipment to remove seeds and other contaminants prior to our landing. A code of conduct lecture explains the do's and don’ts of Antarctic behaviour. "Don't scare the natives" Until tomorrow. PS It's cold.